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Celebrating my 34th in wine country this Monday was pretty awesome. Instead of my usual nervous breakdown, I relaxed alongside Shawn, soaking up some sun and enjoying the scenery. We didn't plan on visiting many wineries and were mostly interested in seeing what others had told us looked very similar to Tuscany. We were also pretty stoked to visit some "foodie" stops (such as the well-known culinary town Yountville). So, hoping to find our own little piece of Italy just a couple hours south of Seattle, we set out for a nice drive with plenty of roadside stops. Click photos to enlarge.  We started out the day at the west coast branch of the Culinary Institute of America (view from front above). They have a pretty great "campus store" that is open to the public. The CIA is set in a huge old estate with pretty amazing views. We took off to visit a couple of wineries after grabbing a bite to eat at a roadside diner. Grapes were hanging on the vine right along the road. We were loving the rolling hills and vineyards along the way, although we decided that Tuscany doesn't really have valleys like what we saw here.   We stopped at Mumm Napa first. It seemed slightly stuffy and the terrace was under construction, so we just checked out the grounds and adjacent photo gallery before heading along the Silverado Trail. From there, we headed back towards Sonoma to visit Domaine Carneros (shown below). We were thrilled with this choice. Not only did they have a terrace with a view of the hills surrounding it, but they served us a divine cheese plate with our tastings of bubbly. I read my birthday cards as we sat there, which the server apparently took notice of. I later asked about purchasing some spiced pears that were on our cheese plate and, upon finding out they were sold out, she brought me a HUGE box of them (like 5x more than we had on the cheese plate) and called it a birthday gift. She also did not charge us for my (somewhat pricey) tasting. I was so pleased by this random act of kindness. I've seriously needed some kindness lately and this birthday did not disappoint (more on that later!).     We headed back into Yountville for dinner at Bouchon that evening. It was rich, delicious, and generally unforgettable. As much as I like to eat, I have a hard time describing food, but what I can say is that we were really pleased with everything we had. The atmosphere was lovely, too... almost like being in a French bistro in the 1930s. All that and good company, too. It was a great birthday!
We woke to a beautiful morning in San Francisco. After grabbing breakfast and a rental car, we headed to Golden Gate Park's de young museum for the Chihuly exhibit. It was incredible! While we've seen many of his pieces scattered around the Puget Sound area (as well as a couple in the midwest), we had only seen one big exhibition of his work prior to now (back in Chicago many years ago). That exhibit was set in a garden, but this was installations in a gallery setting. It was unbelievable, too. The use of reflection and lighting really made the pieces come to life. And the color... seriously gave me a momentary bout of Stendhal syndrome. After spending too many hours in the exhibit, we drove to our rental house in Sonoma. We popped off at the Golden Gate Bridge and In-N-Out Burger (yum!). The sun is shining here and it is gorgeous. Definitely reminiscent of Tuscany, the area surely has a lot in store for us tomorrow. We finished up our evening with dinner at the girl & the fig. The place has a "salon du fromage". Enough said! Oh, and I posted the photos from yesterday's post just below this one. It's a photo extravaganza!  I hope I don't leave my heart here.Scenes from the Chihuly exhibit. They allowed photography!       The vineyard just off our cottage's deck. The cottage's sweet kitty, Aboo-dah.
This morning, we took off for San Francisco and are now here until Wednesday. Today, we hit some fantastic little shops, ate a couple of amazing meals, and went to the SFMOMA to see the Frida Kahlo exhibit. It was incredible with nearly 5 rooms of her paintings and a vast collection of personal photographs. Afterwards, we went to Mochica where we tried Peruvian food for the first time. We gobbled up chicken chicharones, tequenos smothered in orange ginger sauce and guacamole (to die for!), shrimp ceviche, and veggie paella. Every last bite blew our minds all over our faces. We're off to a Chihuly exhibit in the morning before heading to wine country for 2 nights. Hopefully the nice weather we experienced today will follow us as we continue our little adventure...  Ciao Bella at the Ferry Plaza Market. Yum!
 Amazing selection of heirloom tomatoes...
Topics covered below include: - Venice
- Rome
- Cinque Terre
- Amalfi Coast
- Tuscany
- Lake Como
Venice [ photos] - Accommodations
- Pensione Guerrato (San Polo; €)
We have stayed at the Guerrato twice now and think it's a great value for the location and large room sizes. Their rooms are minimally decorated and include a large continental breakfast. The hotel is located within a 5-minute walk of the Rialto Bridge and can be easily accessed via the new vaporetto stop at Rialto Mercato. During our visits, we have stayed in room #14 and in the 3-bedroom "Nelly" apartment. The apartment (approximately $320 per night) was a fantastic deal with 3 double beds, 1 twin bed, a functioning kitchen, 1 large bathroom, and a dining room. We will return to this hotel again!
- Hotel American (Dorsoduro; €€)
This lovely hotel is positioned right along a canal in Venice's charming Dorsoduro neighborhood. We stayed in a room right at the front of the hotel, where we had great views from any of our 3 balconies. The rooms are decorated in a traditional, elegant Venetian style. The hotel is located within a 15-minute walk to St. Mark's Square on the opposite side of the Accademia Bridge.
- Dining
- Al Bomba (Cannaregio; cichetti)
Al Bomba is located off a very small street in Venice's Cannaregio neighborhood. Blink and you'll miss it! The bar's lovely owner served us eggplant, an “exquisite” baccala, crab fritters, polenta, an asparagus patty, a rice and mozzarella ball, and much more. The sheer number of choices here was outstanding and, for €10 per person including drinks, we stuffed ourselves. Our hostess was a good sport, too, and encouraged us to practice our Italian skills with her.
- Alla Botte (Calle della Bissa 5482, Rialto; cichetti)
We loved this tiny bar and its delicious cichetti (tapas-style appetizers that you can make a meal out of). We ended up eating here on both the first and last nights of our trip in 2005. For €15 total, two people can dine on a couple of plates of cichetti plus one drink each. We had grilled tomatoes, shrimp salad, fried zucchini flowers, seafood fritters, herbed goat cheese, and breaded potatoes. You can also sit at the tables in the back during cichetti service for no cover. The crowd seemed around our age (early 30s).
- Ruga Rialto / Cantina do Mori (San Polo, near Rialto Bridge; cichetti)
We have made several meals out of the cichetti offered at these two bars. Do Mori is a bit more expensive than the Ruga, and both offer a cozy atmosphere. At Do Mori, food and wine can also be taken into the small street just behind the bar. Do Mori serves wine only while the Ruga offers a full bar selection (including local specialties such as prosecco and spritz con aperol). At these two bars, we have sampled calamari, veal meatballs, potatoes with sun-dried tomatoes, seafood fritters, crostini, grilled eggplant, and small sandwiches.
- Gatto Nero (Via Giudecca 88, Burano)
We had lunch here during an excursion to Burano. It was rather hard to find because it is off the main street a bit, but was worth looking for. For approximately €30, we had grilled eel and spaghetti w/ragu. Both were amazing, especially the eel. Always a good sign, the place was filled with locals—even the police were eating there
- Gelato [view related article]
- Paolin (Campo S. Stefano, San Marco)
Definitely one of the best in Venice. My DH tried mixing coconut and giandiua and enjoyed it thoroughly.
- Boutique del Gelato (Salizzada San Lio, Castello)
- Gelateria Artiginale (Burano)
Easy to spot with the giant ice cream cone outside, this shop/gelateria has very fluffy gelato. My ever-daring DH tried (and is still talking about) their most outrageous flavor—Coca Cola. He actually enjoyed it and said it tasted a lot better than a Coke-flavored slush.
- Gelateria Nico (along the Guidecca canal, Dorsoduro)
We went to Gelateria Nico for a local specialty, gianduiotto, a chocolate hazelnut ice cream smothered in whipped cream. If you order at the walk-up window and eat it while strolling along the Guidecca, you'll save approximately €2. If you opt for a table on their lovely deck, expect to pay the price shown on the menu (approximately €5).
- Sightseeing Notes
- Doge's Palace Secret Itineraries Tour
This tour of the Doge's Palace is a lot of fun. A guide leads you to nooks and crannies within the palace that aren't normally accessible, and offers a lot of interesting history about the palace and Venice's history. We particularly enjoyed seeing the mailbox where Venetians could secretly turn in criminals for feats such as poisoning the city's wells, an act punishable by death at the time.
- Campanile
Complete with an elevator, Venice's campanile is a great deal if the sky is clear. The top offers great views of the city and surrounding lagoon. Red roof tiles, many churches, and other islands stretch as far as your eyes can see.
- Burano [photos]
We took the #12 vaporetto from Fondamente Nove to Burano. The ride is a lovely break from the crowds in Venice, passing San Michele and Murano along the way. Burano was charming—a small area dotted with brightly-colored houses that easily make it a photographer’s dream. There aren’t many “sights” so we just walked around and looked at the shops and homes. We were able to purchase some small souvenirs here much cheaper than they would have been on Venice proper.
- Murano
Less than a 10-minute vaporetto ride from Venice is Murano, a separate island in the lagoon known for its longstanding glass making history. We stopped for pizza at a cafe adjacent to the vaporetto stop where we were able to sit in the sun with a fantastic view of the lagoon. After lunch, we wandered along Fondamenta dei Vetri to browse glass shop after shop. We particularly enjoyed a shop at #54 where we purchased several affordable pendants made by a local artisan. In general, Murano felt like a mini-Venice with less crowds. Overall, we found Murano to be slightly less charming than Burano...
- Padova
We decided to visit Padova and the Scrovegni Chapel in 2005. The train ride was a quick 20 minutes from Venice. Once there, we were able to walk right into the Scrovegni Chapel without reservations. You can only visit the chapel for 15 minutes, but it is worth it. It felt similar to the Sistine Chapel (but on a much smaller scale) and was an enjoyable, intimate experience
- Shopping
- Giorgio Nason (Campo S. Gregorio, Dorsoduro 167) [view related article]
Giorgio Nason's jewelry designs are organic and elegant while staying unique to what appeals to the masses based on pieces in other shops in Venice and Murano. He offers rings, bangles, and pendants in many exciting color combinations. Prices start at approximately €55 and, if you're lucky, you might catch him working in the shop on new creations.
Rome - Accommodations
- Nicolas Inn (Via Cavour 295; cash only; €)
We had a lovely stay at the Nicolas Inn. Our American hostess, Melissa, was extremely friendly and helpful. The inn’s location is superb. It’s on a very busy street (but remains quiet at night), and is only a couple of blocks from the Colosseum and Forum. We were given a large room with simple decoration, satellite TV (including CNN), and a fully-functioning air conditioner.
- Argentina Residenza (47 Via di Torre Argentina; €€)
Calling itself a “boutique hotel”, the Argentina Residenza is sleek with dark wood and chrome accents. We were given a 2-level room (bathroom on the top floor alongside a twin bed) that included a small fridge, satellite TV (no English-speaking stations), and a lounge area. The room was clean and very nice. With the exception of one friendly employee, the staff generally left more to be desired.
- Dining
- Santa Cristina (Via della Cordonata 21-22)
When we arrived at this restaurant, it was completely empty. I have no idea why—it was easily one of the best meals we had during our stay in Rome. It is a bit hidden, but completely worth looking for. The interior is cozy and we were served a complimentary glass of prosecco upon being seated. For €38 total, we had stuffed mushrooms, spinach gnocchi with gorgonzola, cheese and onion lasagna, and a half-liter of wine. The lasagna was heavy and flavorful, different from the American version filled with ricotta and tomato sauce. The portion sizes were some of the smallest we have seen in Italy, but we don’t eat a ton, so it worked for us. We really enjoyed this meal and would return again, perhaps with a bigger appetite.
- Cavour 313 (near the Colosseum/Forum)
We stopped in here for a light lunch and loved this little enoteca. Their bottled wine list was very impressive and we were able to find wines that other enotecas in Rome did not offer. For lunch, we ordered a mixed salami platter, goat cheese crostini, and a sizeable bottle of water (€23). Along with the usual bread, we were able to easily fill up on this and left quite happy.
- Hosteria da Nerone (Via delle Termi di Tito 96, near Colosseum)
If you reserve a table at Nerone, you can be guaranteed a lovely view of the Colosseum. For a total of €26, we both ordered spaghetti alla carbonara (from their traditional Roman menu) with a half-liter of their house white wine. The carbonara was fabulous, the wine was horrible.
- Dal/Al Pompiere (Via Saint Maria dei Calderari 38)
We saw Rachael Ray cooing over her meal at this restaurant on “$40 a Day” and had to check it out for ourselves. Overall, the service could have been better, but I think it might have just been our particular waiter that was a bit odd. For €38 total, we ordered deep-fried zucchini blossoms, a battered and fried artichoke, gnocchi with pomodoro, bucatini all’Amatrice, and a bottle of Frascati. The starters made it all worthwhile. The zucchini blossom was a terribly small portion, but the artichoke was giant! Their menu was seriously impressive, though, with many traditional options. We would return to this restaurant.
- Da Baffetto (Via del Governo Vecchio 114, near Piazza Navona)
The thin, wood-fired crust, fresh ingredients, and amazing cheese made for near perfect pizza. For €19, this was the best value in dining that we encountered in Rome. My DH ordered a capriciossa while I had an onion and mushroom combination. For starters, we ordered bruschetta and were served the most sub-par bruschetta I’ve seen. Basically, we were served bread with a huge slice of an unripe tomato on top. Luckily, the pizza was so good that we forgot about it.
- Cul de Sac (Piazza Pasquino)
We popped in here to purchase a bottle of Orvieto Classico and were amazed at their prices and friendliness. We didn’t have a meal here, but were served bread (free of charge) and had a couple of glasses of wine. The servers were extremely helpful because we were looking for a somewhat rare wine. Unfortunately, they did not have it, but they were kind nonetheless. We loved the atmosphere, as well. Definitely a place to return to for a relaxed lunch or drink.
- Gelato
- Giolitti (Via Uffici del Vicario 40, near Pantheon)
I thought Giolitti might be a bit of a trap, but it was so fun! I seriously felt like a kid in a candy shop. The front half of the shop is filled with pretty cookies and yummy candies. The back half holds the gelato selection, and what a selection it is. They had so many flavors (approximately 60!), several of which we had never seen before. We went nuts and got a three-flavor cone. Not only was it giant, but the server forced whipped cream onto mine, as well. A real delight!
- San Crispino (Via Paneterria 42, near Trevi Fountain)
This was some of the most interesting and delicious gelato I’ve had yet. My DH chose ginger & cinnamon, crema di cacao, and stracciatella. I chose the heavenly combination of honey, meringa di nocciola (hazelnut meringue), and lemon cream. This was the most expensive gelato we had, as well, but was worth the €6.40 we paid for it. Their unique flavors are definitely worth making a special visit to try.
- Blue Ice (several locations)
We were tipped off to try Blue Ice by some locals. Unfortunately, each time we passed one, we weren’t in gelato mode (rare as that was). I’m making a note for our future return, however, based on the sight of the gelato alone. Each fluffy mound must have been piled a foot high inside of their cases.
- Sightseeing Notes
- Bocca della Verita
As an Audrey Hepburn and Roman Holiday fan, I made it a mission to see the “Mouth of Truth” on this trip to Rome. It was overcrowded with tourists at mid-morning when we went. But, we stood in line and waited our turn to stick our hand in its mouth. We are proud to say that neither of us lost a hand in the process. The Bocca is an impressively creepy sight. For those wanting to live out Roman Holiday, I’d recommend you go early in the morning to get some alone time with it. Update 2009: I hear they're charging for this now...
- Capitoline Museums
We enjoyed the Capitoline Museums, particularly the Palazzo dei Conservatori. My DH was strangely fascinated with the Romulus and Remus she-wolf, as well as the Medusa. I enjoyed the courtyard with the fragments of the giant Constantine. The Palazzo Nuovo was basically a museum displaying many busts. Interesting, but less diverse than the Conservatori.
- Icon Tour of the Colosseum & Roman Forum
We chose to take a guided tour of the Colosseum, Roman Forum, and Palantine Hill. We were led by Sarah who has lived in Rome for several years. She was quite knowledgeable and helped us understand the history and evolution of the area better. The entire tour lasted 3 hours (instead of the allotted 2.5) and was worth every penny.
- Roman Cat Sanctuary
A visit to the cat sanctuary is a must for cat-lovers. The Torre Argentina is basically a giant cat playground. Everywhere you look, there are kitties hanging out amongst the ruins. It’s a very interesting and humane project. During the day, they also run a small charity shop where proceeds benefit the sanctuary. We especially liked to look into the area at night when the cats were at their friskiest.
- St. Peter’s Basilica
Once inside, we were in awe of St. Peter’s size and intricacy. I made myself a bit dizzy just from looking up so much. My DH was really impressed and was glad that this was the final church we would visit on our trip. He had decided that all others would pale in comparison to it.
- Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel
Because of its enormity, we walked at a brisk pace through the Vatican Museums on our way to the Sistine Chapel. It was fairly crowded, as every sight in Rome had been during our trip. I enjoyed the mosaic floors throughout certain sections of the museum. We both loved the gallery of maps with its bright colors, intricate designs, and historical purpose. The Sistine Chapel was more impressive than I had remembered from my first visit in 1992. Michelangelo’s ceiling is so three-dimensional and alive. The colors throughout the chapel are bold and stunning. Again, we got dizzy from looking up so long. When entering the chapel, it’s best to stake out a seat. That way, you can relax while you are gawking at this amazing piece of work.
Cinque Terre - Accommodations
- Hotel Villa Steno (Monterosso)
This place books up quickly and it's no surprise why. The prices are fairly affordable, the rooms are large, the manager is a gem of a man, and the views are unforgettable! The cappuccino that comes with breakfast is perfect, as well. This is a great value for the Cinque Terre
- Sightseeing
- Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre
The Cinque Terre offers fabulous hikes between each of the 5 towns. Having heard it made for an easier hike, we started our walk in Riomaggiore. The Via dell'Amore, the (mostly) paved path between Riomaggiore and Manarola was breathtaking. The path meanders right along the cliff's edge, offering spectacular views of the towns and blue waters below. With each passing stop, the hike's difficulty intensifies. As a result, we decided to do 2 of the legs of the hike, stopping in Corniglia after climbing 400+ steps to get up to the top.
Amalfi Coast [ photos] - Accommodations
Albergo California (Positano; €)
This hotel is a real treat. Upon check-in, owner Maria told us that our room was used in “Under the Tuscan Sun” (#62). It turned out to be very spacious, nicely decorated, had great air conditioning, and was located on the second floor. The view would bring us back to this hotel in a heartbeat. Lower, main-level rooms open out onto the shared breakfast balcony and would have views slightly obscured by the grapevines covering the area. The service was wonderful, as well. Maria was happy to arrange reservations for us and the staff was very pleasant. The breakfast consists only of breads and coffee/tea, but for a small fee, they provide several other options, including wonderful scrambled eggs and OJ. - Dining
- Da Costantino (Positano)
The restaurant picked us up outside of our hotel alongside other diners from the area. After a short drive to the other side of town, we were seated alongside the panoramic window and drooled over the view below us the entire time. For €50, we were treated to bruschetta, gnocchi alla sorrentina, a quattro stagione pizza, mixed grilled vegetables, a slice of pear tart, limoncello, and a bottle of a regional white wine. Before our meal arrived, a cook went to the window and picked fresh basil that I swear showed up in my gnocchi several minutes later. You can’t get ingredients fresher than that. =) Overall, we were really impressed with this meal.
- Grottino Azzuro (Positano)
We enjoyed this small, family-run trattoria near the Chiesa bus stop. The view was not as nice as other restaurants we visited, but the friendly service and low prices were unbeatable. For €25, we ordered bruschetta, a mixed pasta plate, pumpkin ravioli, tiramisu, and a carafe of wine. This place is laid-back and very small. If reserving a table ahead of time, they can hold the nicest table near the window.
- La Tagliata (Montepertuso)
We chose to celebrate our first anniversary at La Tagliata. Fortunately for us, our anniversary fell on the same night as the festival honoring the town’s church. Our hotel was able to arrange a car for us and we were taken high above Positano to Montepertuso. A special table had been arranged for us, so we had a wonderful view of Positano below us, as well as Montepertuso decorated for the festivities. We were pleased with what we ordered: cannelloni, spaghetti with shrimp, a mixed grill platter, and a mixed cake plate featuring their unforgettable Torta della Nonna. We spent €61 and later found out that they offer an extensive fixed-price menu that basically includes the same amount of food for around the same price.
- Cumpa Cosimo (Ravello)
I chose fusili w/pomodoro while owner Netta encouraged my DH to try the mixed pasta (€26 total). I ended up wishing I had ordered it, as well. Each dish was yummy, but Netta's crespelle is a dish I will never forget eating. It was well worth the trouble we put into finding this place!
- Gelato
- Buca di Bacco (near the beach in Positano)
This was our favorite gelato stop in Positano. They offer special flavors specific to the area, such as “Positano” and limoncello. Their Kinder flavor was out-of-this world, with ribbons of chocolate throughout the gelato. The cost was also reasonable considering its location right on the beach. We also tried the brioche w/gelato, but didn’t quite understand the appeal.
- Sightseeing
- Capri
The ride to Capri was spectacular and worth the price of admission alone. Once on Capri, we opted for the Monte Solaro chair lift and both adored it! To get there from Capri Town, we took a wild bus ride to Anacapri. Once in Anacapri, we easily found the chair lift and it was a relaxing and peaceful to the top. This was an absolute highlight of our trip. The views during the ride, as well as from the top, were jaw-dropping.
- Ravello
- Villa Cimbrone
It was a bit of a walk to get to the villa, but the gardens were magnificent! In addition to the biggest hydrangeas I have ever seen, I was amazed by the many plants/flowers that were completely new to me. We thoroughly enjoyed the Infinity Balcony, as well—a highlight of the Amalfi Coast for us.
- Villa Rufolo
Because we were a bit tight on time, I’m not sure that we were able to get a complete feel for this villa. But, if we return to Ravello, I will consider seeing a concert at Villa Rufolo. The view from the stage area was rather unbelievable.
Tuscany- Accommodations
- Hotel Il Giglio (Montalcino; €)
We stayed at this lovely hotel during our honeymoon in 2004. At the time, the hotel had no A/C, but its positive aspects far outweighed that one negative. Our room came with a large balcony overlooking the countryside below. For a small additional fee, a grand breakfast was delivered to our room each morning so we could eat while taking in the view. The town's main piazza was less than a 5-minute walk away, as well.
- Palazzo Al Torrione (San Gimignano; €)
We reserved a 2-room suite (#5) at Palazzo al Torrione. Arriving at the hotel to see our amazing room and the view it offered was spectacular. We were elated at how cute our room was and its proximity to the center of town was fantastic. We were also located right next to the hotel’s breakfast room, so taking advantage of that in the evening was a breeze. The hotel offers free nightly parking and shuttled us (and our luggage) to and from the car upon arrival and departure. The only negative aspect to this hotel was a bit of unfriendliness on the part of the staff, but we were able to overlook that given the high quality room for the low price we paid.
- Dining
- Pasticceria Armando e Marcella (San Gimignano; €)
The selection of chocolates, pastries, traditional Tuscan cookies, and sandwiches at this large pasticceria overwhelmed us. While the others ate panini, I chose a piece of tomato bruschetta larger than any I had ever seen before. The flavor of it did not disappoint, either! We visited this place every single day during our visit to San Gimignano, and I would not hesitate to return.
- Trattoria Chiribiri (San Gimignano; €)
A small place with only half a dozen tables, this trattoria served us an unbelievably cheap yet grand meal (€13 per person w/drinks). Between four of us, we shared pumpkin ravioli, gnocchi with a creamy tomato sauce, a spinach and meat crepe, tagliatelli with fresh porcini mushrooms, and a salad to boot. Even though we were full, we squeezed in zuppa inglese (sponge cake soaked with vanilla and chocolate) for dessert. Reservations recommended.
- La Mandragola (San Gimignano; €€)
The sign out front advertising their lovely terrace pulled us in to this restaurant. However, when we got inside, the terrace wasn't even open. Very confusing! We splashed out anyhow and tried some very interesting dishes. We had a pecorino tart and a caprese salad, followed by two parpardelle dishes (one with wild boar ragu, the other with a saffron sauce). Everything was wonderful. We finished with a glass of the local vin santo and cookies. Overall, it was a great meal, although a bit pricier than we usually like to spend (approx. €70 total).
- Enoteca la Vena di Vino (Volterra; €)
We found an outdoor seating area at Enoteca La Vena di Vino on a quiet street. For €10 each, we were served quite the spread! We shared two large plates of proscuitto, salami, tomatoes, three varieties of pecorino cheese, and slices of mozzarella. We also indulged in a pecorino fondue, easily one of the tastiest creations we’ve experienced from the regional cheese. It was so rich that eating it with a simple piece of bread was divine. I also had a glass of a local, earthy tasting red wine called “Le Balze”. This little place is proof that being passionate about high quality food and drink doesn't have to be snobby (or expensive, for that matter!). All in all, it was an experience that we won't forget anytime soon.
- Re Gallo (Castellina in Chianti; €)
At Re Gallo, we were treated to artichoke ravioli with a sage and butter sauce, a pecorino omelet, and a traditional pici (thick spaghetti-like noodle) with Sienese sausage and porcini mushroom sauce. I've certainly eaten better, but this place was a good find for the low cost associated with it. I think we spent less than $10 per person, and left fairly fat and happy. Our mothers were pleased to find Diet Coke available here, as well.
- Il Grappolo Blu (Montalcino; €€)
Il Grappolo Blu is a cozy little restaurant in Montalcino that we really enjoyed. We tried their mixed crostini plate, a hearty ragu on the local pici pasta, and other goodies here. Would return in a heartbeat!
- Sightseeing
- The Leaning Tower of Pisa
The “field of miracles” in Pisa is no doubt an impressive sight. Because of this, however, it is overrun with crowds and souvenir stands selling trinkets that are undoubtedly imported from China. As a result, it feels a bit like a circus with incredible architecture in the center ring. The tower itself isn’t the tallest campanile we’ve climbed, by any means, but the gentle of pull of gravity we felt as we ascended certainly made for a unique experience. The stone steps were quite worn down closer the top with a bowl shape basically cut from them where many feet had tread before. The climb went fairly quickly and wasn’t overly claustrophobic until the stairwell narrowed and, eventually, turned into a spiral staircase right at the end. At the top, a gentle breeze cooled us off as we enjoyed our view of the campo (with its church and baptistery) below. We could also see the Pisa FC stadium amongst the red roof tiles spread before us. Because the number of people allowed in the tower at one time is heavily controlled, we were rushed back down fairly quickly.
Lake Como- Accommodations
- Eremo Gaudio (Varenna; €€)
Our rooms (#18 and #31 on the "inferior" level) were spacious, plainly decorated, and offered wonderful views of Lake Como. Room 31 had a very large patio with chairs and a table, while room 18 had two small balconies with just enough room for a couple of chairs on each. Both rooms also came with satellite TV, hair dryers, and a small fridge. Breakfast consisted of pastries, cereal and yogurt (the standard continental in Italy!). We felt like the distance from town was a bit oppressive given the large hill that had to be climbed with each round trip. The service was a bit spotty, as well, with the primary concierge a bit on the grumpy side. He chased our mothers away from the breakfast room one morning, and stared them down as they fiddled with the key to their room another night. We were surprised to see the hotel's beautiful terrace looking like a ghost town, as well. Overall, the hotel was a decent value with a fantastic view from each room.
- Dining
- Il Cavatappi (Varenna; €€)
Having made a reservation over email before we left the US, we felt privileged to be eating in a place so clearly created as a labor of love. The owner and chef, Mario, treated us to salad covered in his own egg and mustard dressing, bacon, and apples. My husband and mother-in-law indulged in a red wine risotto while my mother and I ate spaghetti with tomatoes and shredded ricotta. Shawn also ate a tender pork chop seasoned with anise. We finished with a plate of mixed desserts that included crème caramel, apple tart, and a luscious banana-strawberry mousse. This meal was a real pleasure!
- Victoria Grill (Varenna; €)
Good pizza available for carry-out.
- Nilus Bar (Varenna; €)
We enjoyed this laid back spot on Varenna's waterfront. One evening, we were able to drop by and get crepes to go. We also stopped by for lunch another day and scored a seat under the canopy to enjoy views over the harbor. Besides crepes, the Nilus Bar offers pizzas, a large bruschetta menu, and other goodies—all at a decent price.
- Trattoria San Giacomo (Bellagio; €€)
We really enjoyed lunch at this inviting trattoria. For €15 each, we got quite the meal—troffie with pesto, grilled vegetables, chicken cacciatore, and a soothing soup and salad. Outdoor seating also available.
- Sightseeing
- Villa Carlotta (near Tremezzo)
We took a boat from Varenna to Villa Carlotta, enjoying the views along the way. Villa Carlotta, an ornate house right on the water’s edge, is home to a large diverse botanical garden. At the entrance, there is a beautiful formal garden and fountain with the villa hovering high above it. We spent a couple of hours exploring the garden’s many micro-environs—seeing bamboo displays, rhododendrons, cactus, fruit trees and roses galore. We walked up several hills and climbed a large staircase into a small Japanese garden. By the time we left, we figured we’d only seen ¾ of the grounds.
- Villa Balbianello (near Lenno)
At the dock in Lenno, we were instructed to walk to the opposite side of the harbor to catch a water taxi to Villa Balbianello. Feeling straight out of a movie, a speed boat delivered us to the villa in its dramatic location along a point jutting out into the lake. We quickly realized why the villa is so revered as a special destination. The grounds were positively breathtaking—unique, thought provoking, and romantic. We felt like royalty as we circled through its landscape. The gardens were planted with vivid colors and it seemed as if an amazing viewpoint awaited us at every turn. At one point, we turned a corner and I looked up to see a perfectly manicured hillside, dotted with cypress and other trees. My mother-in-law nearly burst into tears upon seeing it. We took a short break in the sun in the villa’s hilltop loggia. The loggia has been featured in many films. Being there was quite surreal and certainly magical.
- Villa Monastero (Varenna)
After breakfast, we walked to the Villa Monastero, a villa featuring a long, narrow garden just outside our hotel. We strolled through the gardens, looking at many unique plants and stopping to smell orange blossoms along the way. The fruit trees had such a sweet scent, similar to that of honeysuckle or lilacs. We swooned each time we passed them. The garden was adorned with many ornamental details, including decorative archways and somewhat creepy statues and door knockers. At the far end of the garden, we found a nice view of Varenna, a perfect spot for creative inspiration!
London [ photos] - Dining
- Wagamama (various locations; £)
An old favorite of mine, Wagamama has spawned into a nationwide chain. The service is always fast, the food is made with flavorful and fresh ingredients, and the price is on the low side (entrees are typically under £10). I tend to order the yaki soba and it never fails me.
- Belgo Centraal (Covent Garden; ££)
Located in an old monastery, Belgo's atmosphere is more reminiscent of a fancy basement than a monastery (in my opinion). We went at lunchtime and were fed a surprising amount of food for £7/plate. They have a very interesting selection of Belgian beers, as well. That all being said, I wouldn't say it was anything special. Just convenient and affordable.
- Valerie's Patisserie (Soho; £)
We hunted this gem down and did not regret it. The display of cookies and pretty pastries made us drool. They tasted just as good, too. I tried the homemade cannoli (£2.50). My goodness!
- Other Cheap Eats
The horrible exchange rate forced us to grab pre-packaged food more than we cared to. Marks & Spencer actually has pretty good wraps and sandwiches for around £3 each. Sadly, I cannot say the same for those found at Tesco.
- Sightseeing
- Tate Modern
One thing I have always admired about London is the public access to great museums. While some of our American museums charge high entry fees, many of London's are free during all opening hours. This gives anyone the opportunity to explore what these institutions offer while also presenting the option to pop in for an hour here or there. All of that aside, the Tate Modern holds an impressive collection. I particularly enjoyed the vast amount of Surrealist works on display. The building itself is currently undergoing some work, so we did not get to see the great Turbine hall. Loved the giant shop, too. They had very helpful staff and a huge amount of their works available in postcard form.
- St. Paul's Cathedral / Dome
We chose to pay admission (£9/person) to climb to the top of St. Paul's dome. There are three stopping points along the way: the Whispering Gallery, a lower exterior viewing platform, and the top. The climb is around 450 steps and includes many spiral staircases and narrow hallways. At one point, you can see that you are in the "shell" of the dome, as well. The Whispering Gallery was fantastic. The view below looking into the cathedral offered a neat vantage point, but looking up to the ceiling was especially amazing. My husband and I whispered to one another and were surprised to find out that it actually works! When we finally reached the top, we took awhile to drink in the 360 degree view. Not having been to London in seven years, the number of cranes on the skyline was a bit shocking. The city has transformed quite a bit in recent years, and the top of the dome offered an interesting view point to absorb the city's new look. Finally, we decided we did not need to go up in the Eye because this view was good enough for us. =)
- Little Venice to Regent's Park walk
Using a card from our London Walks box, we strolled a few miles from Little Venice along the canal to Regent's Park. Little Venice was quite colorful and bohemian. It felt more like Amsterdam than Venice to me, and I enjoyed looking at the unique way in which each of the boats are decorated. The canal itself didn't seem too exciting with some parts of the walk offering nothing much to look at. Regent's Park was lovely, though. The "Queen's Garden" was pretty incredible with weeping willows, a nice bridge, and black swans floating about.
- Tower Bridge Experience
I have been back and forth across this bridge so many times and never had a clue that you can actually go up inside of it. When we discovered this, we paid £12 each to check it out. Unless you are into learning about the inner workings and mechanics of bridges, I would lean towards not recommending it. I just enjoyed knowing I was inside of the bridge more than anything else. The view is a bit obstructed at the top, but the exhibit designers were kind enough to include little windows for taking pictures. The engine exhibition bored us a bit, so we hurried through it. Regardless, walking across the bridge (especially at night) has always been magical for me. It never fails to impress me.
The Cotswolds [photos] - Accommodations
- Number Nine (Stow-on-the-Wold; £70/night)
We had a great experience at this little B&B. The owners, James (Jimmy) and Carol, were incredible. So down to earth, great hosts, and really fun to chat with. We stayed in room 3 (only 1 of 3 total rooms) at the top of the house. It was a good size with a small-ish bathroom, and everything was tidy and comfortable. A taller person would probably have trouble with the shower (low ceilings) but we did just fine. The owners presented us with a perfect full English breakfast each morning. They were also very helpful in assisting us with finding a taxi (as mentioned above). The Number Nine was a very short distance to the main square in Stow, as well.
- Bramley House (Chipping Campden; £65/night)
Even smaller than our previous B&B, Bramley House has just two rooms for rent. Our room was large and bright and decorated in a pleasing way. It felt fresh and clean. We had a nice view over the back garden, too. The owners, Jane and David, were so welcoming and friendly. Jane is full of helpful information, too, and offered a lot of advice about different walks and restaurants in the area. We were provided a wonderful full English breakfast (again!) each morning, and were also invited to enjoy tea in the front garden one afternoon. Staying with them felt like staying with family. They have their own sheep which we were introduced to, as well. It was a real treat, so we wouldn't hesitate to stay here again. A short five minute walk had us on the high street in Chipping Campden.
- Dining
- Stow-on-the-Wold
- The Queen's Head (main square; £)
When we arrived at 7:00 pm the first evening, we discovered that everything (except pubs and restaurants) had shut down for the evening. We headed to this small pub where we immediately got a real feeling of community. Locals had the front section reserved for card playing and socializing. The bartender seemed to know everyone by name, as well as by drink. We found a cozy table in the back and had a nice steak-and-ale pie along with the local Donnington Ale. With its limestone walls, low ceiling, and cozy feeling, this pub provided just the type of atmosphere we were hoping to find in the Cotswolds.
- The King's Arms (main square; £)
After our first full day of walking, we visited The King's Arms for a ploughman's platter. As usual, we chose to eat in the pub rather than the restaurant. We had stuffed ourselves with a big cream tea earlier, so splitting this made for a nice light dinner. It came with a bit of salad, a good-sized portion of cheese, bread, pickles, and a delicious apricot chutney that I've been dreaming about ever since. We also ordered a Pimm's & Lemonade, which I've decided is a great summer drink. Very refreshing and tasty.
- Chipping Campden
- The Red Lion (off Sheep Street; £)
We chose to eat in the pub portion of this restaurant in order to catch a soccer match on one of their many TVs. Both of our meals were really good even though the portion sizes seemed a bit on the small side for the price. I had a nice quiche and roast vegetables while my husband had a pork dish. The barmaid was very friendly and provided great service. We mainly enjoyed the atmosphere, though. The low ceilings, limestone walls, and local vibe was perfect. By time the game came on, the place was packed, so we were happy to have arrived early to secure a good seat. The outdoor beer garden was quite nice, as well.
- Noel Arms Pub (High Street; £)
We had a nice meal here on our last night in Chipping Campden. Once again, I ordered a ploughman's platter with five different types of local cheese. They were all outstanding. The service was terribly slow, which we were warned about when placing our order. Otherwise, the look of the pub itself was great (again with the cozy, low ceilings and a limestone bar). The patrons were primarily tourists, though, so if you're looking to mix with locals, I'd recommend visiting The Red Lion instead (see above).
- Sightseeing
There aren't many "sights" in the Cotswolds. We spent the majority of four full days simply walking to and from each town and enjoying the scenery. When we reached our destination, we enjoyed wandering around the neighborhoods and looking at the high street within each town. We also tried to have tea or a pint in each, as well. That being said, we did pay admission to two places during our stay:
- Bourton-on-the-Water's Model Village
As silly as it may seem, we had never heard of a model village until seeing Hot Fuzz (filmed in Wells rather than in the Cotswolds). We thought the idea was so funny that we visited Bourton's during our stop there. At £3 each, we felt that the price of admission was well worth it. The model village was adorable and amazingly well thought out in its details. We had a lot of fun roaming around and particularly enjoyed the model village inside the model village that was inside the model village. =)
- Hidecote Manor Gardens
I went to the Cotswolds with the hopes of seeing many a well manicured garden. Visiting Hidecote was satisfying in so many ways that it's the only proper garden we ended up seeking out. The creativity displayed in each of the "rooms" within the garden was impressive. The sheer size and density of the grounds was overwhelming, so we didn't even get through it all before it was time for our journey back. There is also a little outdoor tea room that made for a nice pit stop.
- Walking
Our main motivation for visiting the Cotswolds was the ease with which you can travel on foot in the area. The many footpaths that run through the area are noted with small markers on fence posts. We were primarily on The Gloucestershire Way and The Cotswold Way during our walks. Beer fanatics will be happy to know that there is even a trail (The Donnington Way) to lead walkers to pubs serving the local ale. Because most of the trails run through privately owned fields, walkers must pass through gates or hop over fences. This was one of our favorite parts of the walks. Each gate or fence we passed was another accomplishment along the way. Although the footpaths are well-marked for the most part, we were pleased to have our #45 Cotswolds Ordnance Map along for reassurance that we weren't getting lost. A compass might have been a good idea, too... Each walk took us to a different town (or two). Here are some thoughts on a few of the seven we visited:
- Bourton-on-the-Water
Even though Bourton is one of the most touristed towns, it was our favorite of the bunch. Fortunately, travelling slightly off-season minimized crowds and gave us great weather. We spent several hours exploring the neighborhood streets, enjoying cream tea, checking out the shops, drinking beer, and visiting the Model Village. Our tea stop was at the Rose Tree right along the river. We each had delicious ham sandwiches, scones, and an amazing piece of cake. We were able to enjoy this meal in their sweet garden out front and couldn't have been happier with our stop there.
- Snowshill
We walked far and wide to get to Snowshill. This town was a filming location for Bridget Jones' Diary. We walked from the Broadway Tower to Snowshill and the approach into town was quite a sight. Perched atop the side of a hill, Snowshill was just glowing. I shot a ton of photos just inside the main square. The church is right in the middle of town and I can only imagine how beautiful it must be at night, or when there is snow. I was enchanted. Also, Snowshill is the kind of place that has few places to stop and eat. We chose The Snowshill Arms pub for a nice lunch before heading on our way. My husband was also able to try Scrumpy there. Although it was a bit strong, he was glad to tick it off his to-do list for The Cotswolds.
- Chipping Campden
We spent two nights in charming Chipping Campden (pronounced Cam-den). The high street is a continuous row of honey-colored cuteness. There are a lot of nice shops and restaurants along the road, and the old market is quite impressive. Several houses within the neighborhood have actual thatched roofs. We found ourselves on Birdcage Lane one evening and were quite confused as we noticed a tremendous amount of chirping coming from the shrubbery. We were never able to determine the source. On our final evening, the owner of our B&B invited us to see their family's sheep. It was so cool. The sheep all came running towards us when they saw her approaching. We were able to pet them a bit and learn their names. So sweet!
- Stow-on-the-Wold
We spent our first two nights in Stow. Stow is small, but offered a lot of great options for food and many charming pubs. The main square is gorgeous. The architecture within the square, and of the town's church, was breathtaking. The best part about Stow for us was meeting the owner of our B&B. He had loads of opinions to share with us in his witty, sarcastic English way. Plus, he made a great full English breakfast for us, too.
- Broadway
The walk into Broadway from Snowshill was so fantastic that my expectations for it soared. The town's main street was quite a wide thoroughfare, though, with a lot of traffic buzzing around. I was a bit disenchanted with the vibe created as a result. We did, however, find a really cool little shop (Cotswold Trading Co.) where we bought a swell tin to store our tea in at home.
Our Previous Trips (blog entries + trip reports)
You can view our trip reports or blogged entries by clicking the England or Trip Reports links found on the right sidebar. England-specific Resources
When in doubt, here are a few more resources for tips and advice on planning a trip to England.
Believe it or not, lots of friends ask us about travelling to Europe each year. Too bad they aren't so lucky as to have Rick Steves' headquarters within driving distance! Anyhow, here are questions we answer, well... frequently. - Where do I start when planning my own trip?
- How long should I stay in each place?
- How did you plan your trip?
- Do you get travel insurance?
- How much luggage do you take?
- What else do you bring with you?
- Can you tell me your favorite hotels or restaurants in England or Italy?
Where do I start when planning my own trip?
- Buy your plane tickets.
Once you do, your trip dates and starting/ending points are solid. Think about purchasing an “open jaw” ticket that allows you to arrive in one city, but leave from another. These type of tickets don’t typically cost much more, but can save you time and other costs further down the line.
- Develop a potential itinerary.
Base your itinerary on the number of "nights" you want to spend in each place. Use a map to figure out a logical route for your journey. Be sure to include 1 night for your overnight flight to Europe. Don’t forget to consider travel time between destinations. Rework until the itinerary feels just right.
- Book hotels.
Now that you have your itinerary finalized, start researching and reserving hotels for each stop. Using email or a hotel’s website, we typically contact 2-3 hotels for each stop to see if there is availability. If we get a response that appeals to us, we check the hotel’s rating on TripAdvisor.com. If you find that every hotel you contact is booked, revisit your itinerary. Look at a map and see if it’s logical to change your route. If that’s not possible, research smaller towns close to your desired destination to see if there are more options for lodging.
- Decide how you’ll get from point to point.
Get a train pass and/or reserve a car. We like to use http://www.autoeurope.com/ for our car rentals overseas.
- Finally, plan all the fun bits!
Where you'll eat and what you'll do while on your trip.
How long should I stay in each place?
The answer to this question depends on what your goals are for your trip. You might want to see as much as possible, checking sight after sight off of a list. Or you might want to relax while getting to know a place. When we travel overseas, we choose to spend a minimum of 3 nights in each of our stopping points. A big factor to consider when making up your itinerary is the amount of time you’ll have to spend traveling between destinations. During our recent trip to Italy, we booked 3 nights in Lake Como. To get there from Tuscany, we spent nearly seven hours on the road. By time we reached our hotel, the day was gone and we were left with two full days to explore the area.
How did you plan your trip?
We plan our trips with guidebooks and online resources. Even though my ideal afternoon at the local bookstore is spent reading travel books, we still turn to the internet for a lot of help. Here are links that we turn to every time for general planning tips, as well as hotel and restaurant recommendations: Maps & Guidebooks:
Do you get travel insurance?
Yes, and it’s cheap! We like CSA Travel Protection. For approximately $40, up to $1,000 in belongings is insured, as well as purchases made during short travel delays. Their insurance also includes basic medical coverage. We’ve had to file a claim twice and have experienced zero difficulties in getting them settled. There is a trick to getting a low price quote, however. Follow Shawn's foolproof steps as outlined below and you’ll be all set: - Click "Get a Quick Quote" at http://www.csatravelprotection.com/.
- Enter your state of residence.
- Enter 0 for total trip cost.
Note: this is the trick for getting a low price. By entering 0, you waive the right to be reimbursed should you cancel the trip prior to leaving. If you’re confident nothing will change your plans, go for it! - Enter your departure and return dates.
- Enter your destination (most likely Europe/Mediterranean).
- Select the following trip components: Flight, Lodging, Rail, Car/Bus
- Enter your age and get your quote!
How much luggage do you take?
We each carry 1 rolling bag at the maximum carry-on size (currently 9x14x22 inches, but check your airlines regulations) and one small backpack. We take just enough clothing to get by, planning to wear each item 2-3 times during our trip. Although we get sick of our clothes after a handful of days, doing this is worth saving the hassle that dragging big bags can create. Rolling luggage along cobblestone streets or hauling heavy bags into trains during the sole minute it’s at the platform can be a real headache. The smaller our bags are, the better! Here are some helpful links for tips on packing light:
What else do you bring with you?
Preparing for a trip often involves a big paper trail. We print hotel confirmations, copy pages from library books, and read forum posts about our destinations. So, before we leave, we organize our documents and often have them bound at a copy center (depending on just how big the pile is). Putting your info together in a simple folder will also do the trick. The resulting book usually includes the following: - travel itinerary/plane reservations
- hotel reservation confirmations and directions/maps to each
- car rental confirmation
- any sightseeing reservations
- public transportation information (including train/bus schedules)
- photocopy of passports (just in case the actual thing is lost or stolen!)
- international phone numbers for credit card companies (found on the back of each card)
- travel insurance policy number and information for making a claim
- restaurant/shopping/sightseeing ideas (including copies from library books/research from online forums)
- addresses for postcards
Can you tell me your favorite hotels or restaurants in England or Italy?
Absolutely! I've compiled our favorite hotels, restaurants, and things to do for the places we are familiar with, or have travelled to. You can find them by clicking the links under "our travels" in the right sidebar. Hopefully our future travels will help expand the info that we have to share. Enjoy!
Sharing this trip with our mothers turned out to be a great decision. Since moving to Seattle, we have gotten to spend time with them on a vacation basis. That showed us that they would be great travel partners and we couldn't have been more right. What surprised us was just how well they got along with each other, too! They made great roommates and we are so happy that we got to share this special experience with them. Oh, and between the four of us over the duration of our trip, we ate 28 gelati. I'm honestly surprised it wasn't more...
We awoke to another overcast morning in Varenna. We planned to spend our last full day in Italy split between Lake Como and a hotel near the airport in Milan. So, we were determined to make the most of it. After breakfast, we walked to the Villa Monastero, a villa featuring a long, narrow garden just outside our hotel. We strolled through the gardens, looking at many unique plants and stopping to smell orange blossoms along the way. The fruit trees had such a sweet scent, similar to that of honeysuckle or lilacs. We swooned each time we passed them. The garden was adorned with many ornamental details, including decorative archways and somewhat creepy statues and door knockers. At the far end of the garden, we found a nice view of Varenna, so Shawn stopped to sketch the scene.  The view from Villa Monastero.    The gardens at Villa Monastero.
It started to sprinkle an hour or so into our visit, so we decided to head into town for lunch. We found a covered seating area at Nilus Bar that was exactly what we’d hoped for. While we ate, a few ducks wandered right up to us begging for crumbs. Liz saved some bread and fed them once we’d finished. Before heading back to our hotel, we stopped into Varenna’s internet café one last time, where we chatted with the same lady we’d been practicing our Italian with since arriving two days prior. Shortly after, we grabbed a taxi and headed to the train station to catch our ride to Milan. From Milan, we took a bus to Malpensa airport. We ate a small meal and a yummy tiramisu in the airport before calling the shuttle to our hotel nearby. In the cab, Mom burped and we all started to laugh when she asked if it smelled like garlic. Liz, Mom, and I then devised a plot for a game show. “What did I have for dinner? Guess this burp!” We laughed so hard that we must have sounded drunk. We were still pretty slap happy when we got into our swank hotel, so we ended up taking funny photos with bathroom props and a mysterious pole in our rooms. We finally called it a night, knowing we had to get up at 4:00 am to catch our flights home.   Leaving Italy on a classy note...
This morning, we all woke up super early because the sun was filling our rooms with light. We’d made a pact the previous night to get out quickly if the weather seemed like it might cooperate. We met Mom and Liz in the breakfast room only to find them giggling already. They explained that the hotel’s automated coffee machine had gone haywire when Mom tried to use it earlier. Apparently, the machine’s several drink options came out in varying amounts based on the type of mug to be used. Thinking she could control the amount, Mom attempted to get just a touch of hot milk using a tiny espresso cup. She quickly figured out she couldn’t stop the flow and ended up creating an overflowing fountain of hot milk. We laughed about what a sight that must have been while quickly eating yet another day’s worth of pastries and cereal. Since the weather seemed to be on the up, we decided to visit two of Lake Como’s major villas and gardens. We took a boat from Varenna to Villa Carlotta, enjoying the views now that the sky had turned blue. The snowy Alps were far more visible today! Villa Carlotta, an ornate house right on the water’s edge, is home to a large diverse botanical garden. At the entrance, there is a beautiful formal garden and fountain with the villa hovering high above it. We spent a couple of hours exploring the garden’s many micro-environs—seeing bamboo displays, rhododendrons, cactus, fruit trees and roses galore. We walked up several hills and climbed a large staircase into a small Japanese garden. By the time we left, we figured we’d only seen ¾ of the grounds.  Villa Carlotta and its impressive grounds. We headed to Villa Balbianello near Lenno next. Because we had to pass through Bellagio to catch a connecting boat to Lenno, Shawn and I ran through the town’s steep lanes to find a quick lunch option. We found a grocery store off a small lane where a sweet old woman whipped up fresh sandwiches for us to take on the boat. So, we picnicked on the way to Lenno. In Lenno, we were instructed to walk a half mile to catch a water taxi to Villa Balbianello. Feeling straight out of a movie, the speed boat delivered us to the villa in its dramatic location along a point jutting out into the lake. We quickly realized why the villa is so revered as a special destination. The grounds were positively breathtaking—unique, thought provoking, and romantic. We felt like royalty as we circled through its landscape. The gardens were planted with vivid colors and it seemed as if an amazing viewpoint awaited us at every turn. At one point, we turned a corner and I looked up to see a perfectly manicured hillside, dotted with cypress and other trees. Liz nearly burst into tears when she turned to see it, saying “Oh, good grief!” We took a short break in the sun in the villa’s hilltop loggia. The loggia has been featured in many films. Being there was quite surreal and certainly magical.  The lawn at Villa Balbianello. The jaw-dropping hillside from Heaven.  The villa and its magical loggia.  Relaxing in the loggia.Back in Varenna, we rested for a bit before heading to dinner at Il Cavatappi, a tiny restaurant with a mere three tables. Having made a reservation before we left the US, we felt privileged to be eating in a place so clearly created as a labor of love. The owner and chef, Mario, treated us to salad covered in his own egg and mustard dressing, bacon, and apples. Shawn and Liz both indulged in a red wine risotto while Mom and I ate spaghetti with tomatoes and shredded ricotta. Shawn also ate a tender pork chop seasoned with anise. We finished with a plate of mixed desserts that included crème caramel, apple tart, and a luscious banana-strawberry mousse. We chatted about our favorite parts of the trip and just enjoyed each other’s company for a little bit longer.  One of our last gelati... Dinner at Il Cavatappi.
Waking up to rain created a bad start to the day. We decided to power through it and jumped on a autotraghetto (or ferry) to Bellagio. Even in the rain, the view of the lake from the ferry was pretty stellar. A sort of mish-mash of the Cinque Terre and Amalfi Coast mixed with Seattle’s crappy weather, Lake Como’s colorful towns popped against the lush wooded areas surrounding them. All I could assume was that the lake must be pretty great when the sun is actually out.  Rain over Lake Como. Bellagio.   In Bellagio, the rain subsided a bit, so we walked up and down the town’s steep lanes. We stopped for another divine lunch at Trattoria San Giacomo. For €15 each, we got quite the meal. They served us troffie with pesto, grilled vegetables, chicken cacciatore, and a soothing soup and salad. Shawn also managed to squeeze in his second gelato of the day after lunch, as well.   Troffie with pesto... delicious! Since the rain started up again while we were eating, we decided to head back to Varenna shortly after. We squeezed in a quick stroll along the waterfront gardens in Bellagio before the boat arrived. Naturally, it started to clear up just as we arrived back at our home base. Shortly before dinner, Shawn and I walked along Varenna’s honeysuckle-scented pasarella, the waterfront walkway that offers astounding views of neighboring towns and the Alps off in the distance.  Coming back to Varenna. The same scene from the morning, but cleared up and beautiful. Before returning to our hotel, we grabbed prosciutto and cheese crepes at Nilus Bar to eat with leftover pizza back in our room. Our moms joined us as we relaxed with a beautiful sunset, a tasty mish-mash of a meal, and some Italian television. We happened upon a show called “ Festa in Piazza” (or “party in the plaza”) that had us howling for the rest of the evening. A Lawrence Welk-style variety show, Festa in Piazza featured poorly choreographed line dancers and elderly couples waltzing to lip synced hits as they stared vapidly into the camera. Mom, in particular, lost her shit while watching that! If you're so inclined, you can watch some clips from recent episodes of Festa in Piazza: clip 1 | clip 2
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