Italy Recommendations.

Topics covered below include:

• Venice
• Rome
• Cinque Terre
• Amalfi Coast
• Tuscany
• Lake Como

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Venice [photos]

• Accommodations
  
• Pensione Guerrato (San Polo; €)
  We have stayed at the Guerrato twice now and think it's a great value for the location and large room sizes. Their rooms are minimally decorated and include a large continental breakfast. The hotel is located within a 5-minute walk of the Rialto Bridge and can be easily accessed via the new vaporetto stop at Rialto Mercato. During our visits, we have stayed in room #14 and in the 3-bedroom "Nelly" apartment. The apartment (approximately $320 per night) was a fantastic deal with 3 double beds, 1 twin bed, a functioning kitchen, 1 large bathroom, and a dining room. We will return to this hotel again!
  
• Hotel American (Dorsoduro; €€)
  This lovely hotel is positioned right along a canal in Venice's charming Dorsoduro neighborhood. We stayed in a room right at the front of the hotel, where we had great views from any of our 3 balconies. The rooms are decorated in a traditional, elegant Venetian style. The hotel is located within a 15-minute walk to St. Mark's Square on the opposite side of the Accademia Bridge.
  
  
• Dining
  
• Al Bomba (Cannaregio; cichetti)
  Al Bomba is located off a very small street in Venice's Cannaregio neighborhood. Blink and you'll miss it! The bar's lovely owner served us eggplant, an “exquisite” baccala, crab fritters, polenta, an asparagus patty, a rice and mozzarella ball, and much more. The sheer number of choices here was outstanding and, for €10 per person including drinks, we stuffed ourselves. Our hostess was a good sport, too, and encouraged us to practice our Italian skills with her.


• Alla Botte (Calle della Bissa 5482, Rialto; cichetti)
  We loved this tiny bar and its delicious cichetti (tapas-style appetizers that you can make a meal out of). We ended up eating here on both the first and last nights of our trip in 2005. For €15 total, two people can dine on a couple of plates of cichetti plus one drink each. We had grilled tomatoes, shrimp salad, fried zucchini flowers, seafood fritters, herbed goat cheese, and breaded potatoes. You can also sit at the tables in the back during cichetti service for no cover. The crowd seemed around our age (early 30s).


• Ruga Rialto / Cantina do Mori (San Polo, near Rialto Bridge; cichetti)
  We have made several meals out of the cichetti offered at these two bars. Do Mori is a bit more expensive than the Ruga, and both offer a cozy atmosphere. At Do Mori, food and wine can also be taken into the small street just behind the bar. Do Mori serves wine only while the Ruga offers a full bar selection (including local specialties such as prosecco and spritz con aperol). At these two bars, we have sampled calamari, veal meatballs, potatoes with sun-dried tomatoes, seafood fritters, crostini, grilled eggplant, and small sandwiches.
  
• Gatto Nero (Via Giudecca 88, Burano)
  We had lunch here during an excursion to Burano. It was rather hard to find because it is off the main street a bit, but was worth looking for. For approximately €30, we had grilled eel and spaghetti w/ragu. Both were amazing, especially the eel. Always a good sign, the place was filled with locals—even the police were eating there


• Gelato [view related article]
  
• Paolin (Campo S. Stefano, San Marco)
  Definitely one of the best in Venice. My DH tried mixing coconut and giandiua and enjoyed it thoroughly.


• Boutique del Gelato (Salizzada San Lio, Castello)


• Gelateria Artiginale (Burano)
  Easy to spot with the giant ice cream cone outside, this shop/gelateria has very fluffy gelato. My ever-daring DH tried (and is still talking about) their most outrageous flavor—Coca Cola. He actually enjoyed it and said it tasted a lot better than a Coke-flavored slush.


• Gelateria Nico (along the Guidecca canal, Dorsoduro)
  We went to Gelateria Nico for a local specialty, gianduiotto, a chocolate hazelnut ice cream smothered in whipped cream. If you order at the walk-up window and eat it while strolling along the Guidecca, you'll save approximately €2. If you opt for a table on their lovely deck, expect to pay the price shown on the menu (approximately €5).
  
  
• Sightseeing Notes
• Doge's Palace Secret Itineraries Tour
  This tour of the Doge's Palace is a lot of fun. A guide leads you to nooks and crannies within the palace that aren't normally accessible, and offers a lot of interesting history about the palace and Venice's history. We particularly enjoyed seeing the mailbox where Venetians could secretly turn in criminals for feats such as poisoning the city's wells, an act punishable by death at the time.


• Campanile
  Complete with an elevator, Venice's campanile is a great deal if the sky is clear. The top offers great views of the city and surrounding lagoon. Red roof tiles, many churches, and other islands stretch as far as your eyes can see.


• Burano [photos]
  We took the #12 vaporetto from Fondamente Nove to Burano. The ride is a lovely break from the crowds in Venice, passing San Michele and Murano along the way. Burano was charming—a small area dotted with brightly-colored houses that easily make it a photographer’s dream. There aren’t many “sights” so we just walked around and looked at the shops and homes. We were able to purchase some small souvenirs here much cheaper than they would have been on Venice proper.


• Murano
  Less than a 10-minute vaporetto ride from Venice is Murano, a separate island in the lagoon known for its longstanding glass making history. We stopped for pizza at a cafe adjacent to the vaporetto stop where we were able to sit in the sun with a fantastic view of the lagoon. After lunch, we wandered along Fondamenta dei Vetri to browse glass shop after shop. We particularly enjoyed a shop at #54 where we purchased several affordable pendants made by a local artisan. In general, Murano felt like a mini-Venice with less crowds. Overall, we found Murano to be slightly less charming than Burano...


• Padova
  We decided to visit Padova and the Scrovegni Chapel in 2005. The train ride was a quick 20 minutes from Venice. Once there, we were able to walk right into the Scrovegni Chapel without reservations. You can only visit the chapel for 15 minutes, but it is worth it. It felt similar to the Sistine Chapel (but on a much smaller scale) and was an enjoyable, intimate experience
  
  
• Shopping
  
  • Giorgio Nason (Campo S. Gregorio, Dorsoduro 167) [view related article]
    Giorgio Nason's jewelry designs are organic and elegant while staying unique to what appeals to the masses based on pieces in other shops in Venice and Murano. He offers rings, bangles, and pendants in many exciting color combinations. Prices start at approximately €55 and, if you're lucky, you might catch him working in the shop on new creations.

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Rome

• Accommodations
  
  • Nicolas Inn (Via Cavour 295; cash only; €)
    We had a lovely stay at the Nicolas Inn. Our American hostess, Melissa, was extremely friendly and helpful. The inn’s location is superb. It’s on a very busy street (but remains quiet at night), and is only a couple of blocks from the Colosseum and Forum. We were given a large room with simple decoration, satellite TV (including CNN), and a fully-functioning air conditioner.
  
  
  • Argentina Residenza (47 Via di Torre Argentina; €€)
    Calling itself a “boutique hotel”, the Argentina Residenza is sleek with dark wood and chrome accents. We were given a 2-level room (bathroom on the top floor alongside a twin bed) that included a small fridge, satellite TV (no English-speaking stations), and a lounge area. The room was clean and very nice. With the exception of one friendly employee, the staff generally left more to be desired.
    
    
• Dining
  
  • Santa Cristina (Via della Cordonata 21-22)
    When we arrived at this restaurant, it was completely empty. I have no idea why—it was easily one of the best meals we had during our stay in Rome. It is a bit hidden, but completely worth looking for. The interior is cozy and we were served a complimentary glass of prosecco upon being seated. For €38 total, we had stuffed mushrooms, spinach gnocchi with gorgonzola, cheese and onion lasagna, and a half-liter of wine. The lasagna was heavy and flavorful, different from the American version filled with ricotta and tomato sauce. The portion sizes were some of the smallest we have seen in Italy, but we don’t eat a ton, so it worked for us. We really enjoyed this meal and would return again, perhaps with a bigger appetite.
  
  
  • Cavour 313 (near the Colosseum/Forum)
    We stopped in here for a light lunch and loved this little enoteca. Their bottled wine list was very impressive and we were able to find wines that other enotecas in Rome did not offer. For lunch, we ordered a mixed salami platter, goat cheese crostini, and a sizeable bottle of water (€23). Along with the usual bread, we were able to easily fill up on this and left quite happy.
  
  
  • Hosteria da Nerone (Via delle Termi di Tito 96, near Colosseum)
    If you reserve a table at Nerone, you can be guaranteed a lovely view of the Colosseum. For a total of €26, we both ordered spaghetti alla carbonara (from their traditional Roman menu) with a half-liter of their house white wine. The carbonara was fabulous, the wine was horrible.
  
  
  • Dal/Al Pompiere (Via Saint Maria dei Calderari 38)
    We saw Rachael Ray cooing over her meal at this restaurant on “$40 a Day” and had to check it out for ourselves. Overall, the service could have been better, but I think it might have just been our particular waiter that was a bit odd. For €38 total, we ordered deep-fried zucchini blossoms, a battered and fried artichoke, gnocchi with pomodoro, bucatini all’Amatrice, and a bottle of Frascati. The starters made it all worthwhile. The zucchini blossom was a terribly small portion, but the artichoke was giant! Their menu was seriously impressive, though, with many traditional options. We would return to this restaurant.
  
  
  • Da Baffetto (Via del Governo Vecchio 114, near Piazza Navona)
    The thin, wood-fired crust, fresh ingredients, and amazing cheese made for near perfect pizza. For €19, this was the best value in dining that we encountered in Rome. My DH ordered a capriciossa while I had an onion and mushroom combination. For starters, we ordered bruschetta and were served the most sub-par bruschetta I’ve seen. Basically, we were served bread with a huge slice of an unripe tomato on top. Luckily, the pizza was so good that we forgot about it.
  
  
  • Cul de Sac (Piazza Pasquino)
    We popped in here to purchase a bottle of Orvieto Classico and were amazed at their prices and friendliness. We didn’t have a meal here, but were served bread (free of charge) and had a couple of glasses of wine. The servers were extremely helpful because we were looking for a somewhat rare wine. Unfortunately, they did not have it, but they were kind nonetheless. We loved the atmosphere, as well. Definitely a place to return to for a relaxed lunch or drink.
    
    
• Gelato
  
• Giolitti (Via Uffici del Vicario 40, near Pantheon)
  I thought Giolitti might be a bit of a trap, but it was so fun! I seriously felt like a kid in a candy shop. The front half of the shop is filled with pretty cookies and yummy candies. The back half holds the gelato selection, and what a selection it is. They had so many flavors (approximately 60!), several of which we had never seen before. We went nuts and got a three-flavor cone. Not only was it giant, but the server forced whipped cream onto mine, as well. A real delight!


• San Crispino (Via Paneterria 42, near Trevi Fountain)
  This was some of the most interesting and delicious gelato I’ve had yet. My DH chose ginger & cinnamon, crema di cacao, and stracciatella. I chose the heavenly combination of honey, meringa di nocciola (hazelnut meringue), and lemon cream. This was the most expensive gelato we had, as well, but was worth the €6.40 we paid for it. Their unique flavors are definitely worth making a special visit to try.


• Blue Ice (several locations)
  We were tipped off to try Blue Ice by some locals. Unfortunately, each time we passed one, we weren’t in gelato mode (rare as that was). I’m making a note for our future return, however, based on the sight of the gelato alone. Each fluffy mound must have been piled a foot high inside of their cases.
  
  
• Sightseeing Notes
  
  • Bocca della Verita
    As an Audrey Hepburn and Roman Holiday fan, I made it a mission to see the “Mouth of Truth” on this trip to Rome. It was overcrowded with tourists at mid-morning when we went. But, we stood in line and waited our turn to stick our hand in its mouth. We are proud to say that neither of us lost a hand in the process. The Bocca is an impressively creepy sight. For those wanting to live out Roman Holiday, I’d recommend you go early in the morning to get some alone time with it. Update 2009: I hear they're charging for this now...
  
  
  • Capitoline Museums
    We enjoyed the Capitoline Museums, particularly the Palazzo dei Conservatori. My DH was strangely fascinated with the Romulus and Remus she-wolf, as well as the Medusa. I enjoyed the courtyard with the fragments of the giant Constantine. The Palazzo Nuovo was basically a museum displaying many busts. Interesting, but less diverse than the Conservatori.
  
  
  • Icon Tour of the Colosseum & Roman Forum
    We chose to take a guided tour of the Colosseum, Roman Forum, and Palantine Hill. We were led by Sarah who has lived in Rome for several years. She was quite knowledgeable and helped us understand the history and evolution of the area better. The entire tour lasted 3 hours (instead of the allotted 2.5) and was worth every penny.
  
  
  • Roman Cat Sanctuary
    A visit to the cat sanctuary is a must for cat-lovers. The Torre Argentina is basically a giant cat playground. Everywhere you look, there are kitties hanging out amongst the ruins. It’s a very interesting and humane project. During the day, they also run a small charity shop where proceeds benefit the sanctuary. We especially liked to look into the area at night when the cats were at their friskiest.
  
  
  • St. Peter’s Basilica
    Once inside, we were in awe of St. Peter’s size and intricacy. I made myself a bit dizzy just from looking up so much. My DH was really impressed and was glad that this was the final church we would visit on our trip. He had decided that all others would pale in comparison to it.
  
  
  • Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel
    Because of its enormity, we walked at a brisk pace through the Vatican Museums on our way to the Sistine Chapel. It was fairly crowded, as every sight in Rome had been during our trip. I enjoyed the mosaic floors throughout certain sections of the museum. We both loved the gallery of maps with its bright colors, intricate designs, and historical purpose. The Sistine Chapel was more impressive than I had remembered from my first visit in 1992. Michelangelo’s ceiling is so three-dimensional and alive. The colors throughout the chapel are bold and stunning. Again, we got dizzy from looking up so long. When entering the chapel, it’s best to stake out a seat. That way, you can relax while you are gawking at this amazing piece of work.

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Cinque Terre

• Accommodations
• Hotel Villa Steno (Monterosso)
  This place books up quickly and it's no surprise why. The prices are fairly affordable, the rooms are large, the manager is a gem of a man, and the views are unforgettable! The cappuccino that comes with breakfast is perfect, as well. This is a great value for the Cinque Terre
  
  
• Sightseeing
  
  • Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre
    The Cinque Terre offers fabulous hikes between each of the 5 towns. Having heard it made for an easier hike, we started our walk in Riomaggiore. The Via dell'Amore, the (mostly) paved path between Riomaggiore and Manarola was breathtaking. The path meanders right along the cliff's edge, offering spectacular views of the towns and blue waters below. With each passing stop, the hike's difficulty intensifies. As a result, we decided to do 2 of the legs of the hike, stopping in Corniglia after climbing 400+ steps to get up to the top.

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Amalfi Coast [photos]

• Accommodations
  Albergo California (Positano; €)
  This hotel is a real treat. Upon check-in, owner Maria told us that our room was used in “Under the Tuscan Sun” (#62). It turned out to be very spacious, nicely decorated, had great air conditioning, and was located on the second floor. The view would bring us back to this hotel in a heartbeat. Lower, main-level rooms open out onto the shared breakfast balcony and would have views slightly obscured by the grapevines covering the area. The service was wonderful, as well. Maria was happy to arrange reservations for us and the staff was very pleasant. The breakfast consists only of breads and coffee/tea, but for a small fee, they provide several other options, including wonderful scrambled eggs and OJ.


• Dining
  
• Da Costantino (Positano)
  The restaurant picked us up outside of our hotel alongside other diners from the area. After a short drive to the other side of town, we were seated alongside the panoramic window and drooled over the view below us the entire time. For €50, we were treated to bruschetta, gnocchi alla sorrentina, a quattro stagione pizza, mixed grilled vegetables, a slice of pear tart, limoncello, and a bottle of a regional white wine. Before our meal arrived, a cook went to the window and picked fresh basil that I swear showed up in my gnocchi several minutes later. You can’t get ingredients fresher than that. =) Overall, we were really impressed with this meal.


• Grottino Azzuro (Positano)
  We enjoyed this small, family-run trattoria near the Chiesa bus stop. The view was not as nice as other restaurants we visited, but the friendly service and low prices were unbeatable. For €25, we ordered bruschetta, a mixed pasta plate, pumpkin ravioli, tiramisu, and a carafe of wine. This place is laid-back and very small. If reserving a table ahead of time, they can hold the nicest table near the window.


• La Tagliata (Montepertuso)
  We chose to celebrate our first anniversary at La Tagliata. Fortunately for us, our anniversary fell on the same night as the festival honoring the town’s church. Our hotel was able to arrange a car for us and we were taken high above Positano to Montepertuso. A special table had been arranged for us, so we had a wonderful view of Positano below us, as well as Montepertuso decorated for the festivities. We were pleased with what we ordered: cannelloni, spaghetti with shrimp, a mixed grill platter, and a mixed cake plate featuring their unforgettable Torta della Nonna. We spent €61 and later found out that they offer an extensive fixed-price menu that basically includes the same amount of food for around the same price.


• Cumpa Cosimo (Ravello)
  I chose fusili w/pomodoro while owner Netta encouraged my DH to try the mixed pasta (€26 total). I ended up wishing I had ordered it, as well. Each dish was yummy, but Netta's crespelle is a dish I will never forget eating. It was well worth the trouble we put into finding this place!



• Gelato
  
  • Buca di Bacco (near the beach in Positano)
    This was our favorite gelato stop in Positano. They offer special flavors specific to the area, such as “Positano” and limoncello. Their Kinder flavor was out-of-this world, with ribbons of chocolate throughout the gelato. The cost was also reasonable considering its location right on the beach. We also tried the brioche w/gelato, but didn’t quite understand the appeal.

• Sightseeing
  
  • Capri
    The ride to Capri was spectacular and worth the price of admission alone. Once on Capri, we opted for the Monte Solaro chair lift and both adored it! To get there from Capri Town, we took a wild bus ride to Anacapri. Once in Anacapri, we easily found the chair lift and it was a relaxing and peaceful to the top. This was an absolute highlight of our trip. The views during the ride, as well as from the top, were jaw-dropping.
  
  
  • Ravello
    
    • Villa Cimbrone
      It was a bit of a walk to get to the villa, but the gardens were magnificent! In addition to the biggest hydrangeas I have ever seen, I was amazed by the many plants/flowers that were completely new to me. We thoroughly enjoyed the Infinity Balcony, as well—a highlight of the Amalfi Coast for us.
    
    
    • Villa Rufolo
      Because we were a bit tight on time, I’m not sure that we were able to get a complete feel for this villa. But, if we return to Ravello, I will consider seeing a concert at Villa Rufolo. The view from the stage area was rather unbelievable.

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Tuscany

• Accommodations
  
  • Hotel Il Giglio (Montalcino; €)
    We stayed at this lovely hotel during our honeymoon in 2004. At the time, the hotel had no A/C, but its positive aspects far outweighed that one negative. Our room came with a large balcony overlooking the countryside below. For a small additional fee, a grand breakfast was delivered to our room each morning so we could eat while taking in the view. The town's main piazza was less than a 5-minute walk away, as well.
  
  
  • Palazzo Al Torrione (San Gimignano; €)
    We reserved a 2-room suite (#5) at Palazzo al Torrione. Arriving at the hotel to see our amazing room and the view it offered was spectacular. We were elated at how cute our room was and its proximity to the center of town was fantastic. We were also located right next to the hotel’s breakfast room, so taking advantage of that in the evening was a breeze. The hotel offers free nightly parking and shuttled us (and our luggage) to and from the car upon arrival and departure. The only negative aspect to this hotel was a bit of unfriendliness on the part of the staff, but we were able to overlook that given the high quality room for the low price we paid.
    
    
• Dining
  
• Pasticceria Armando e Marcella (San Gimignano; €)
  The selection of chocolates, pastries, traditional Tuscan cookies, and sandwiches at this large pasticceria overwhelmed us. While the others ate panini, I chose a piece of tomato bruschetta larger than any I had ever seen before. The flavor of it did not disappoint, either! We visited this place every single day during our visit to San Gimignano, and I would not hesitate to return.


• Trattoria Chiribiri (San Gimignano; €)
  A small place with only half a dozen tables, this trattoria served us an unbelievably cheap yet grand meal (€13 per person w/drinks). Between four of us, we shared pumpkin ravioli, gnocchi with a creamy tomato sauce, a spinach and meat crepe, tagliatelli with fresh porcini mushrooms, and a salad to boot. Even though we were full, we squeezed in zuppa inglese (sponge cake soaked with vanilla and chocolate) for dessert. Reservations recommended.


• La Mandragola (San Gimignano; €€)
  The sign out front advertising their lovely terrace pulled us in to this restaurant. However, when we got inside, the terrace wasn't even open. Very confusing! We splashed out anyhow and tried some very interesting dishes. We had a pecorino tart and a caprese salad, followed by two parpardelle dishes (one with wild boar ragu, the other with a saffron sauce). Everything was wonderful. We finished with a glass of the local vin santo and cookies. Overall, it was a great meal, although a bit pricier than we usually like to spend (approx. €70 total).


• Enoteca la Vena di Vino (Volterra; €)
  We found an outdoor seating area at Enoteca La Vena di Vino on a quiet street. For €10 each, we were served quite the spread! We shared two large plates of proscuitto, salami, tomatoes, three varieties of pecorino cheese, and slices of mozzarella. We also indulged in a pecorino fondue, easily one of the tastiest creations we’ve experienced from the regional cheese. It was so rich that eating it with a simple piece of bread was divine. I also had a glass of a local, earthy tasting red wine called “Le Balze”. This little place is proof that being passionate about high quality food and drink doesn't have to be snobby (or expensive, for that matter!). All in all, it was an experience that we won't forget anytime soon.
  
• Re Gallo (Castellina in Chianti; €)
  At Re Gallo, we were treated to artichoke ravioli with a sage and butter sauce, a pecorino omelet, and a traditional pici (thick spaghetti-like noodle) with Sienese sausage and porcini mushroom sauce. I've certainly eaten better, but this place was a good find for the low cost associated with it. I think we spent less than $10 per person, and left fairly fat and happy. Our mothers were pleased to find Diet Coke available here, as well.


• Il Grappolo Blu (Montalcino; €€)
  Il Grappolo Blu is a cozy little restaurant in Montalcino that we really enjoyed. We tried their mixed crostini plate, a hearty ragu on the local pici pasta, and other goodies here. Would return in a heartbeat!


• Sightseeing
  
  • The Leaning Tower of Pisa
    The “field of miracles” in Pisa is no doubt an impressive sight. Because of this, however, it is overrun with crowds and souvenir stands selling trinkets that are undoubtedly imported from China. As a result, it feels a bit like a circus with incredible architecture in the center ring. The tower itself isn’t the tallest campanile we’ve climbed, by any means, but the gentle of pull of gravity we felt as we ascended certainly made for a unique experience. The stone steps were quite worn down closer the top with a bowl shape basically cut from them where many feet had tread before. The climb went fairly quickly and wasn’t overly claustrophobic until the stairwell narrowed and, eventually, turned into a spiral staircase right at the end. At the top, a gentle breeze cooled us off as we enjoyed our view of the campo (with its church and baptistery) below. We could also see the Pisa FC stadium amongst the red roof tiles spread before us. Because the number of people allowed in the tower at one time is heavily controlled, we were rushed back down fairly quickly.

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Lake Como

• Accommodations
  
  • Eremo Gaudio (Varenna; €€)
    Our rooms (#18 and #31 on the "inferior" level) were spacious, plainly decorated, and offered wonderful views of Lake Como. Room 31 had a very large patio with chairs and a table, while room 18 had two small balconies with just enough room for a couple of chairs on each. Both rooms also came with satellite TV, hair dryers, and a small fridge. Breakfast consisted of pastries, cereal and yogurt (the standard continental in Italy!). We felt like the distance from town was a bit oppressive given the large hill that had to be climbed with each round trip. The service was a bit spotty, as well, with the primary concierge a bit on the grumpy side. He chased our mothers away from the breakfast room one morning, and stared them down as they fiddled with the key to their room another night. We were surprised to see the hotel's beautiful terrace looking like a ghost town, as well. Overall, the hotel was a decent value with a fantastic view from each room.


• Dining
  
  • Il Cavatappi (Varenna; €€)
    Having made a reservation over email before we left the US, we felt privileged to be eating in a place so clearly created as a labor of love. The owner and chef, Mario, treated us to salad covered in his own egg and mustard dressing, bacon, and apples. My husband and mother-in-law indulged in a red wine risotto while my mother and I ate spaghetti with tomatoes and shredded ricotta. Shawn also ate a tender pork chop seasoned with anise. We finished with a plate of mixed desserts that included crème caramel, apple tart, and a luscious banana-strawberry mousse. This meal was a real pleasure!
  
  
  • Victoria Grill (Varenna; €)
    Good pizza available for carry-out.
  
  
  • Nilus Bar (Varenna; €)
    We enjoyed this laid back spot on Varenna's waterfront. One evening, we were able to drop by and get crepes to go. We also stopped by for lunch another day and scored a seat under the canopy to enjoy views over the harbor. Besides crepes, the Nilus Bar offers pizzas, a large bruschetta menu, and other goodies—all at a decent price.
  
  
  • Trattoria San Giacomo (Bellagio; €€)
    We really enjoyed lunch at this inviting trattoria. For €15 each, we got quite the meal—troffie with pesto, grilled vegetables, chicken cacciatore, and a soothing soup and salad. Outdoor seating also available.
    
    
• Sightseeing
  
• Villa Carlotta (near Tremezzo)
  We took a boat from Varenna to Villa Carlotta, enjoying the views along the way. Villa Carlotta, an ornate house right on the water’s edge, is home to a large diverse botanical garden. At the entrance, there is a beautiful formal garden and fountain with the villa hovering high above it. We spent a couple of hours exploring the garden’s many micro-environs—seeing bamboo displays, rhododendrons, cactus, fruit trees and roses galore. We walked up several hills and climbed a large staircase into a small Japanese garden. By the time we left, we figured we’d only seen ¾ of the grounds.
  
• Villa Balbianello (near Lenno)
  At the dock in Lenno, we were instructed to walk to the opposite side of the harbor to catch a water taxi to Villa Balbianello. Feeling straight out of a movie, a speed boat delivered us to the villa in its dramatic location along a point jutting out into the lake. We quickly realized why the villa is so revered as a special destination. The grounds were positively breathtaking—unique, thought provoking, and romantic. We felt like royalty as we circled through its landscape. The gardens were planted with vivid colors and it seemed as if an amazing viewpoint awaited us at every turn. At one point, we turned a corner and I looked up to see a perfectly manicured hillside, dotted with cypress and other trees. My mother-in-law nearly burst into tears upon seeing it. We took a short break in the sun in the villa’s hilltop loggia. The loggia has been featured in many films. Being there was quite surreal and certainly magical.


• Villa Monastero (Varenna)
  After breakfast, we walked to the Villa Monastero, a villa featuring a long, narrow garden just outside our hotel. We strolled through the gardens, looking at many unique plants and stopping to smell orange blossoms along the way. The fruit trees had such a sweet scent, similar to that of honeysuckle or lilacs. We swooned each time we passed them. The garden was adorned with many ornamental details, including decorative archways and somewhat creepy statues and door knockers. At the far end of the garden, we found a nice view of Varenna, a perfect spot for creative inspiration!