DAY 09: Villa hopping.

This morning, we all woke up super early because the sun was filling our rooms with light. We’d made a pact the previous night to get out quickly if the weather seemed like it might cooperate. We met Mom and Liz in the breakfast room only to find them giggling already. They explained that the hotel’s automated coffee machine had gone haywire when Mom tried to use it earlier. Apparently, the machine’s several drink options came out in varying amounts based on the type of mug to be used. Thinking she could control the amount, Mom attempted to get just a touch of hot milk using a tiny espresso cup. She quickly figured out she couldn’t stop the flow and ended up creating an overflowing fountain of hot milk. We laughed about what a sight that must have been while quickly eating yet another day’s worth of pastries and cereal.

Since the weather seemed to be on the up, we decided to visit two of Lake Como’s major villas and gardens. We took a boat from Varenna to Villa Carlotta, enjoying the views now that the sky had turned blue. The snowy Alps were far more visible today! Villa Carlotta, an ornate house right on the water’s edge, is home to a large diverse botanical garden. At the entrance, there is a beautiful formal garden and fountain with the villa hovering high above it. We spent a couple of hours exploring the garden’s many micro-environs—seeing bamboo displays, rhododendrons, cactus, fruit trees and roses galore. We walked up several hills and climbed a large staircase into a small Japanese garden. By the time we left, we figured we’d only seen ¾ of the grounds.


Villa Carlotta and its impressive grounds.



We headed to Villa Balbianello near Lenno next. Because we had to pass through Bellagio to catch a connecting boat to Lenno, Shawn and I ran through the town’s steep lanes to find a quick lunch option. We found a grocery store off a small lane where a sweet old woman whipped up fresh sandwiches for us to take on the boat. So, we picnicked on the way to Lenno.

In Lenno, we were instructed to walk a half mile to catch a water taxi to Villa Balbianello. Feeling straight out of a movie, the speed boat delivered us to the villa in its dramatic location along a point jutting out into the lake. We quickly realized why the villa is so revered as a special destination. The grounds were positively breathtaking—unique, thought provoking, and romantic. We felt like royalty as we circled through its landscape. The gardens were planted with vivid colors and it seemed as if an amazing viewpoint awaited us at every turn. At one point, we turned a corner and I looked up to see a perfectly manicured hillside, dotted with cypress and other trees. Liz nearly burst into tears when she turned to see it, saying “Oh, good grief!” We took a short break in the sun in the villa’s hilltop loggia. The loggia has been featured in many films. Being there was quite surreal and certainly magical.


The lawn at Villa Balbianello.


The jaw-dropping hillside from Heaven.



The villa and its magical loggia.



Relaxing in the loggia.

Back in Varenna, we rested for a bit before heading to dinner at Il Cavatappi, a tiny restaurant with a mere three tables. Having made a reservation before we left the US, we felt privileged to be eating in a place so clearly created as a labor of love. The owner and chef, Mario, treated us to salad covered in his own egg and mustard dressing, bacon, and apples. Shawn and Liz both indulged in a red wine risotto while Mom and I ate spaghetti with tomatoes and shredded ricotta. Shawn also ate a tender pork chop seasoned with anise. We finished with a plate of mixed desserts that included crème caramel, apple tart, and a luscious banana-strawberry mousse. We chatted about our favorite parts of the trip and just enjoyed each other’s company for a little bit longer.


One of our last gelati...


Dinner at Il Cavatappi.