We decided to visit the city’s largest flea market at St. Ouen this morning. To get there, we rode to the far end of our Metro line and exited Paris city limits. The area felt a bit sketchy, but once we started to explore the market stalls, we got totally sucked in. It became immediately obvious that this is where buyers and designers for stores like Anthropologie, Ralph Lauren and Pottery Barn (seashells in glass bell jar, anyone?) for inspiration. Many stalls were thrown together in a perfectly messy way and looked straight out of a catalog. We looked at vintage prints and postcards, antique furniture, books, keys, clothing, architectural elements (think doors and windows), chandeliers, mirrors, knick-knacks and even carousel horses. We hardly covered any ground and were completely impressed and overwhelmed all at the same time.
After visiting the flea market, we jumped on a train to Montmartre in the 18th. Coming out of the Metro stop, the Moulin Rouge was directly in front of us (as well as the many sex shops that surround it). We decided to have lunch at the Café des 2 Moulins, the café made famous by the film Amelie (photo below). It looked nearly identical to the way it appeared 10 years ago. The cigarette stand run by Georgette has been removed in favor of more seating, but it’s otherwise perfect and charming.
We next hunted out what was award the best baguette in Paris award this year. A Senagalese pastry chef is creating the fluffiest, yet crustiest baguettes at Le Grenier de Pain. The long line out the door told us hot baguettes were ripe for the plucking, and we got to see them being pulled out of the oven by the master chef himself. We weren’t hungry, but we couldn’t bear to wait and broke into it immediately as it was still warm. It was just as advertised: the best baguette I’ve ever tasted (see below).
We next wandered through the area, fighting the crowds, and popping into shops here and there. The main square was crowded with artists and tourists, so we took a seat at a café to indulge in a little coffee. Well, indulge we did, because when the bill came, it was a shocking €12.50 for two coffees. So glad the exchange rate is so low right now!
A bit of rain had been coming down up until this point, but as we left the café, the sun broke as we went to see Sacre Couer. The sky was bright blue against the Arabesque cathedral’s bright white stone construction. The afternoon service let out just as we arrived and the congregation exited the church singing in unison as they paraded down the street—a goosebump moment indeed.
We watched street performers dance and I haggled with a vendor for a cheap replica of the Eiffel Tower. Before heading home, we sat in the sun on the steps of the park on the hill just below the church. I am in love with Paris.
Before coming in for the night, we managed to squeeze in another patisserie visit. This time, we went to the famous Laduree just two blocks from our apartment. I picked up a pack of eight macarons that I’m hoping will survive the long flight home Tuesday. Feeling a bit in need of veggies and wanting to lay off the bread for the evening, we picked up Chinese “a emportez” (or “to go”) at Chez Poon (seriously) around the corner. It turned out to be a pretty fine meal.
Tomorrow is our last full day in Paris. Oddly, we both feel as if we’ve barely scratched the surface.
After visiting the flea market, we jumped on a train to Montmartre in the 18th. Coming out of the Metro stop, the Moulin Rouge was directly in front of us (as well as the many sex shops that surround it). We decided to have lunch at the Café des 2 Moulins, the café made famous by the film Amelie (photo below). It looked nearly identical to the way it appeared 10 years ago. The cigarette stand run by Georgette has been removed in favor of more seating, but it’s otherwise perfect and charming.
We next hunted out what was award the best baguette in Paris award this year. A Senagalese pastry chef is creating the fluffiest, yet crustiest baguettes at Le Grenier de Pain. The long line out the door told us hot baguettes were ripe for the plucking, and we got to see them being pulled out of the oven by the master chef himself. We weren’t hungry, but we couldn’t bear to wait and broke into it immediately as it was still warm. It was just as advertised: the best baguette I’ve ever tasted (see below).
We next wandered through the area, fighting the crowds, and popping into shops here and there. The main square was crowded with artists and tourists, so we took a seat at a café to indulge in a little coffee. Well, indulge we did, because when the bill came, it was a shocking €12.50 for two coffees. So glad the exchange rate is so low right now!
A bit of rain had been coming down up until this point, but as we left the café, the sun broke as we went to see Sacre Couer. The sky was bright blue against the Arabesque cathedral’s bright white stone construction. The afternoon service let out just as we arrived and the congregation exited the church singing in unison as they paraded down the street—a goosebump moment indeed.
We watched street performers dance and I haggled with a vendor for a cheap replica of the Eiffel Tower. Before heading home, we sat in the sun on the steps of the park on the hill just below the church. I am in love with Paris.
Before coming in for the night, we managed to squeeze in another patisserie visit. This time, we went to the famous Laduree just two blocks from our apartment. I picked up a pack of eight macarons that I’m hoping will survive the long flight home Tuesday. Feeling a bit in need of veggies and wanting to lay off the bread for the evening, we picked up Chinese “a emportez” (or “to go”) at Chez Poon (seriously) around the corner. It turned out to be a pretty fine meal.
Tomorrow is our last full day in Paris. Oddly, we both feel as if we’ve barely scratched the surface.
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